By Bob Hayden
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Extra info for Styrene modeling: How to build, paint, and finish realistic styrene models
Joe Morgan built the model and took the picture. S OMETIMES IT SEEMS as if there must be a kit offered for every subject you could ever want to build —■ and in every scale! It doesn't take long, though, to find something that isn't available. Often, the best way to model the subject is to modify a kit that's close, or use parts from several kits. " Whatever term vou choose, modify- ing kits combines the best of what kits bring to the table — accurate forms and wonderful surface detail - with your specific modeling needs.
Once the solvent has dried, also consider reinforcing the inside of the joint with a fillet of thick super glue j or 5-minute epoxy. Correcting warped parts Minor warping on thin parts can be worked out by gently bending the parts during assembly and holding them straight while the solvent sets. ) and straightening against a flat surface such as a sheet of glass. Where this won't work, the solution is to make multiple thin slots with a razor saw on the back of the part to render it flexible enough to bend it into place, then fill the slots where they are visible.
Often, you can position joints where they'll be hidden later by details, which means you don't have to finish them carefully. Although kitbashing is by definition a patchwork process, we don't want a patchwork result. Try to work out the smallest num- Bridges are easy to kitbash, because real bridges consist of repeating standard pieces. Here's a typical project: Parts from two Walthers HO (1/87 scale) kits were combined to make a bridge two bays longer than the kit. If the bridge were significantly longer the trusses would have to be higher for strength, but this conversion has good proportions and is convincing.